New York to Toronto

August 15, 2009

Following about a week at home, I again set out. Herself and I had planned several days in Toronto; the plan was that I would drive and she would fly. I left on August 15, and drove to Crown Point, New York, only 15 miles or so from Ticonderoga, where I was recently.

Besides being on beautiful Lake Champlain, Crown Point is the site of more colonial history. It is the site of two ruined forts: Fort St. Frédéric, constructed by the French in the 1730s, and Fort Crown Point, built by the British in 1759, late in the French and Indian War. Neither fort was ever attacked militarily; both forts were largely destroyed by defenders before withdrawing from them before superior forces, although buildings in Fort Crown Point were destroyed by fire in 1773. The remains of both forts are now part of a New York state historical site, and there is an attached campground, where I spent the night. The area's first European explorer was Samuel de Champlain, who modestly named the lake for himself. On the tercentenary of his exploration, a lighthouse was erected at Crown Point to mark the occasion. It features a sculpture depicting Champlain and his native (probably Huron) guide, as well as a small bronze by Auguste Rodin, representing France.

The following day was spent in a somewhat leisurely drive across the center of the Adirondack Mountains to Watertown, and then north to Cape Vincent, where Horne's ferry took me to the Canadian Wolfe Island, and another took me to Kingston, Ontario. A drive along the Loyalist Highway (so named because the area was settled during and after the Revolution by colonists Loyal to the Crown) brought me to Carrying Place, Ontario, where I pitched my tent in a commercial campground otherwise full of RVs semi-permanently ensconced in their lots.

On the morning of August 17, I drove to the Toronto airport and picked Herself up, after which we made our way to the hotel in the city.

New York: Saratoga and Ticonderoga

August 7, 2009

Having lately cultivated an interest in early American history, I decided to visit Saratoga National Historical Park and Fort Ticonderoga, scenes of colonial and Revolutionary War events.

Saratoga was the scene of a pivotal series of battles in 1777 that resulted in the formal entry of France into the American Revolutionary War (it had already been "covertly" supporting the independence movement). While the Americans had management issues in the defending army, they were able to raise both army and militia forces to defeat a British army coming from Quebec. (Pictured at right: Philip Schuyler, who led the army until August 1777, Horatio Gates, who led during the key battles, and Daniel Morgan, whose men played an important role. Not pictured, since there is no statue, is Benedict Arnold, whose valor at Saratoga on behalf of the Americans was overshadowed by his treacherous change of sides in 1780. Arnold is commemorated at Saratoga by the Boot Monument, which honors his left leg, which was severely injured in the second battle.) The national park encompasses the battlefield and the location about 10 miles to the north where John Burgoyne's army eventually surrendered. While I enjoyed a beautiful morning exploring the area, I personally find historic battlefield photos unininspiring, hence none here...

From Saratoga it's a drive north along the Hudson to Glens Falls, and then along Lake George to the small town of Ticonderoga. While portions of the NY Route 9N are scenic, the views along the southern reaches of the lake are constrained by somewhat intensive resort buildup. The fort is best known for being the scene of action both during the Revolution and the French and Indian War, when a large, incompetently-led British army was defeated by a French defense about 25% of its size. Due to strategic issues with the fort's location (it is overlooked by hills where cannons can easily be placed to fire into it), the fort itself was never actually directly attacked either in that battle, or during the 1777 campaign, when the defending Americans withdrew to avoid being surrounded and captured.

Following an afternoon at Fort Ticonderoga, which included a demonstration of musket and cannon fire, I camped at the nearby Rogers Rock Campground.

Take me home country road

Monday July 2

Today I drove from Spruce Knob to the parents' abode outside Philadelphia. Once I exited West Virginia, it largely became the typical mass of undifferentiated interstates where the only things that change from one exit to the next are the labels on the hotels, eateries, and gas stations (which are repeated every 2-4 exits anyway...)

Wednesday July 4

After spending the 3d visiting with the folks, I headed homeward, still following the Appalachians to some rough extent. The day was gray and often rainy. It started with a drive up the Delaware Valley, including the Delaware Water Gap, and a near miss to the New Jersey High Point, which I did not visit since it was thunderstorming at the time.

The drive continued up into the Catskills of New York, including passing through Ashokan, site of a well-known traditional dance camp.

The drive came to a merciful end in Hudson, NY, where, at least in part due to the weather, I decided motelling was better than camping.

Home (or at least, Herself's home, as I was still homeless) was reached on the 5th.